after immersing ourselves in the opening ceremony and initial matches in ulaanbaatar, mongolia's capital, we embarked on a quest to uncover the local gay scene.
while mongolia decriminalized homosexuality some time ago, its lbgtq laws are still evolving, and mongolian society remains largely conservative.
searching for hanzo: a hidden gay bar in ulaanbaatar
using grindr, we connected with several gay residents who pointed us toward a single lgbtq establishment in the city.
one saturday evening, around 10 pm, we ventured out in ulaanbaatar to locate hanzo.
relying on gps coordinates shared by local gay men on grindr, we found ourselves in front of an unassuming cluster of grey, soviet-era buildings tucked away from the main road.
the location was a mere 20-minute walk from our hotel, conveniently close to the city center.
we didn't feel unsafe, as ulaanbaatar, despite being a major city, doesn't have a significant problem with petty crime - a feeling perhaps amplified by traveling as a pair rather than solo.
navigating the soviet blocks
we spent approximately 25 minutes wandering amidst those stark soviet blocks, searching for hanzo.
there were no signs, no recognizable markers to guide us. then, suddenly, the delicate strains of swan lake reached our ears. it felt as though tchaikovsky himself had risen to guide us towards this hidden grey building.
we followed the enchanting music of the famous russian ballet, which led us to a ground-level door at the back of the labyrinthine concrete blocks.
we opened the door and, just like that, we had arrived! our eyes were immediately drawn to a mongolian man dressed in a tight white dress, a giant swan head perched atop his head.
he was exuberantly frolicking, waving his dress, and flapping his arms in time with swan lake.
the same swan-clad performer continued his act, delivering captivating lip-sync performances to a mix of popular mongolian tunes. the audience, a diverse group of local gay men and women of all ages, was completely enthralled.
zorig's story: resilience in the face of adversity
after his performance, the swan man approached the bar.
the crowd surged onto the dance floor, moving to the music of madonna, kylie, and lady gaga. he shared his story with us, recounting his years-long struggle to establish and maintain a gay bar in ulaanbaatar. he had been forced to relocate every few years, either due to homophobic landlords or insufficient patronage.
we realized how privileged we were to have been able to come out at a young age, spared from living a closeted life.
it also underscored how fortunate we are to have such a thriving gay scene in london and other european and american cities we've visited.
zorig finished his drink, we exchanged contact information, and he returned to the stage to continue his comical swan-inspired routine.
this article marked a turning point for our website, gaining traction beyond our immediate circle of friends and family. zorig continues to operate a gay bar in ulaanbaatar to this day.
the bar has undergone several name and location changes, but locals still refer to it as hanzo.
we've maintained contact with zorig via facebook messenger, and he keeps us informed about the latest happenings in the ulaanbaatar lgbtq scene.
in recent years, hanzo has transformed into the melody karaoke bar, located a few blocks from the main train station and near two other gay bars in ulaanbaatar, c.
and diex. the original hanzo signage seen in earlier photos is no longer used, but this description should help you find the new establishment.
we will continue to update our content as information from zorig becomes available!
ulaanbaatar pride, mongolia's equivalent of a pride celebration, takes place every august.
shifting focus: reading, uk - a different kind of gay scene
moving from mongolia to the united kingdom, reading is a sizable town in berkshire county. it boasts one gay-popular venue.
reading is home to a major university, known for the reading festival, and rich in historical attractions.
book a travel gay approved hotel for your stay.
the blagrave arms: reading's gay-popular spot
reading gay bars: while not exclusively a gay venue, the blagrave arms is a well-regarded and popular gay-friendly bar in reading.
it's the only gay bar in town.
you can enjoy a meal and a relaxed drink, or stay late and party. karaoke night takes place on thursdays, and the bar stays open later on weekends.